Езда на велосипеде в гололёд

Езда на велосипеде в гололёд

К сожалению, мы, любители езды на велосипеде, в своем большинстве живем в широтах, где есть зима. Вплоть до 6-ти месяцев наши колеса не соприкасаются с асфальтом. И когда голос Сергея Курдюкова начинает ассоциироваться не с радостью просмотра гранд туров, а с зимним заточением на станке и Zwift уже не вставляет, душа рвется на дорогу и требует скорости. Если вы один из таких смельчаков – тогда это статья для вас.

Первым пунктом (п.1) я бы хотел прописать самое важное и основное. Если на дороге гололед, хоть и не повсеместно, а местами – не выезжайте. Оставайтесь дома. Это будет самым рациональным и разумным решением. Ну, а если между седлом и булками у вас что-то таки есть и не дает покоя, тогда постарайтесь сделать ваш выезд максимально безопасным. Как сделать выезд на велосипеде в гололёд не последним, постараюсь описать дальше.

Лучший вариант – фэтбайк. На нем большой скорости не разовьешь, но по устойчивости не сравнится ни с каким другим.

На второе место я бы поставил байк. Покрышки широкие, устойчивости меньше, чем у фэтбайка, но гораздо больше, чем у шоссейника. К тому же форма руля позволяет лучше контролировать велосипед и дает возможность выйти из заноса. Ну, а сегодня мы поговорим все таки о шоссейнике. Гравел, несомненно, будет в предпочтении. Позволю себе поставить их в один ряд для езды зимой.

Ниже я буду говорить о выезде по преимущественно сухому асфальту, который местами пересекает лед. В полный гололед на трассе на шоссейнике уж точно нечего делать. И особенно, когда асфальт чистый, пошел дождь и появилась сплошная ледяная корочка.

А теперь советы.

Начните с покрышек

Они будут соприкасаться со льдом и имеют первостепенное значение. Чем шире покрышка – тем больше площадь соприкосновение – тем лучше устойчивость. Поставьте на столько широкую, на сколько позволяет вам рама. Приспустите ее – это еще немного увеличит площадь контакта с асфальтом.

Приобретите шипованные покрышки. Лёд часто встречается на склонах холмов, на второстепенных дорогах и местах их пересечения с главной, в тени, в местах, где вода стекает с холмов или полей. Шипованная резина даст вам огромное преимущество перед летней и увеличит в разы ваши шансы не упасть. Можете присмотреться к таким покрышкам.

Безкамерки хорошо подойдут. Вы можете их сильнее приспустить и они серьезно снизят возможность прокола на остром льду.

Велотуфли

Расслабьте немного педали, чтобы легче было выстегиваться. Возможно, лучше подумать о велотуфлях МТБ – двухсторонние педали, расслабив которые при необходимости можно выстегнуть ногу быстро, а так же легче встегнуться. Рельефная подошва, даже не взирая на то, что покрыта бахилами, будет иметь лучшее сцепление с поверхностью, особенно если рядом сугроб снега.

Конечно, если вы фанат зимней езды, то лучше приобрести зимние велотуфли.

 

Топталки – опционно. Но на топталках это уже больше fun, а не тренировка.

Чтобы не замерзнуть в ноги, используйте теплые шерстяные носки. Если ваши бахилы не на столько теплые, то на велотуфли под бахилы можно натянуть носок и целлофановый пакет по старинке. В туфлях останется место для ваших пальцев. Натянув 2 носка на ноги, вы не оставите абсолютно никакого пространства для движения пальцами ног, да и кровь будет циркулировать хуже, что приведет к замерзанию.

Можно совсем слегка опустить седло – ниже центр тяжести – легче управлять велосипедом в экстремальных условиях. Преимуществом также является тот факт, что нога достает лучше до поверхности и при определенных неудачах вы будете более устойчивыми. Так же подумайте о возможности слегка поднять руль – менее агрессивная посадка неплохой помощник в управлении велосипедом.

Асфальт вперемешку со льдом не тот сочетание, которое позволит вам набрать высокую скорость.

Скорее всего, ехать вы будете медленнее обычного. Не очень быстрая езда в минусовую погоду может привести к охлаждению. Возможно, вам следует одеться немного теплее обычного. Да и исключать вариант падения никак нельзя. Одно дело, если вы слегка прилегли в сугроб, встали, отряхнулись и покатили дальше. А если поломка? Остынете вы быстро. Будьте готовы ко всем неожиданностям.

Перчатки

Нет неважных деталей в одежде при езде зимой. Но, наверное, самая важная часть – это перчатки. С замершими руками вы не только тормозить не сможете, а и управлять велосипедом. Поэтому, отнеситесь к этому экипу ответственно. Они должны быть водонепроницаемые и ветрозащитными. А т к вы собираетесь проветриться в минусовую температуру, то подкладка в них также обязана быть. Неплохим вариантом будут «лобстеры» – и управляемость не теряется, и переключаться\тормозить легко, и в руки тепло.

Выбор маршрута

Конечно, зимой хочется покатать на максимально спокойной дороге – тем более с перспективой падения на льду. Но второстепенные дороги хуже чистятся и на них точно больше льда. Что не оставляет нам большого выбора, как выезжать на основную дорогу. Но перед выездом на основную, проверьте все-таки второстепенную – вам может сегодня повезти и она будет расчищенной.

Немного позабывши это ни с чем несравнимое «прекрасное» чувство, когда машина проносится возле тебя в сантиметрах, после первого же «облизывания» подсознательно хочется «прижаться» поближе к бордюру или обочине. Но не следует поддаваться такому разумному инстинкту выживания. У обочины или бордюра будет много мусора, наехав на который можно как проколоться, так и упасть. Вода из тающего снега обычно собирается с края дороги и замерзает, образуя лёд. Это еще один минус.

И не самое последнее, прижавшись вправо, вы ограничиваете себя в пространстве и лимитируете возможность при необходимости объехать либо лёд, либо препятствие. Ну и канализационные люки пока что никто на центр дороги не переносил.

Необходимо всегда держать в уме, что замедление движения, а тем более остановка будет занимать больше времени и происходить медленнее. Но после нескольких раз вы приловчитесь рассчитывать расстояние торможения и этот навык долгоиграющий. При возможности и при наличии выбора, выезжайте на велосипеде с дисковыми тормозами. Они более эффективны зимой и менее подвержены обледенению. «Крабиками» можете тренироваться вначале тормозить попеременно – нажали слегка, отпустили, нажали – отпустили.

Всегда на дороге есть места безо льда. Выберите себе чистую дорожку, если она находится на вашей полосе. Во вторую и дальше полосу я бы крайне не рекомендовал перестраиваться. Проблема чистых полос, что они часто пересекаются ледяными ручейками, и они не бывают абсолютно ровными. Часто густо вам необходимо будет пересекать лёд и перестраиваться в другую сухую дорожку.

Хорошо, когда ледяной ручеек идет поперек дороги. А что если он идет параллельно вашему движению и иногда слегка меняет траекторию то влево, то вправо? Старайтесь пересекать его максимально близко к 90 градусам. Как бы ни было, этот ледяной ручеек будет выпуклым и заехав на него параллельно вы очень сильно рискуете упасть.

Следующая опасность, которую вам следует избегать – подмерзшая разметка. Старайтесь не пересекать ее, а если пересекаете, то делайте как можно плавней – без рывков и резких движений.

На скользкой поверхности педалируйте максимально плавно. Каждый резкий нажим на педаль может привести к пробуксовке, перекосу велосипеда и падению. Если вам необходимо притормозить – ни в коем случае не жмите только на передний тормоз. Вы можете слегка «травить» задний или два тормоза одновременно, с небольшим преимуществом на задний. Если вас понесло, отпустите тормоз и будьте готовы выставить ногу.

При выборе маршрута, обратите внимание на угол дороги. Дорога всегда идет под углом от центра к краю. На одних дорогах он больше, на других приемлемый. Ехать по центру дороги, где угол отсутствует – игра в рулетку. Разве что вас сопровождает сзади и спереди камаз. Поэтому избегайте крутых уклонов. На них площадь соприкосновения ваших покрышек будет уменьшена. К этому прибавляется еще и гравитация, которая в этом случае работает против вас.

Если вам необходимо повернуть или дорога поворачивает, то в отличие от сухого асфальта, где вы заваливаете велосипед в направление поворота, сейчас вы стараетесь держать велосипед максимально перпендикулярно. Выглядит и чувствуется оно неестественно, прям как робот, но этим вы сохраняете максимально площадь соприкосновения покрышки с поверхностью. Выбирайте максимально возможный большой радиус поворота.

Держите каденс слегка пониженным. Болтая быстро ногами, вы рискуете потерять контроль над балансом. Не нужно, конечно, ставить «края» — все, что справа. Но если ваш рабочий каденс 90 оборотов в минуту, то 80 будет приемлемым. Хотя, в этом случае, вам самим необходимо подобрать для себя оптимальное количество оборотов. То, на котором контроль велосипеда будет максимальным. Упражнения на улучшения каденса оставьте для работы на станке.

Если вас понесло, например, влево, то вам необходимо выставить влево колено и постараться перенести центр тяжести так же влево. Вам необходимо стабилизировать занос, выровнять велосипед и поставить его на полную покрышку. Если скорость невысокая, то можно выставить правую ногу и попытаться стать. На большой скорости трюк с выставленной ногой не работает.

И еще советы

Держите руль крепко, но не зажимайтесь.  Если вы зажаты, то возникнут перекосы в балансе велосипеда, что непременно приведет к падению. Никто не говорит, что нужно ехать «без рук» или держать руль двумя пальцами. Но шею, плечи и руки не перегружайте.

Если вы нашли километров пять чистого асфальта, а дальше гололед, то просто кружите на чистом участке. 10 км круг – не самый плохой вариант. К тому же, вы будете чередовать езду по ветру и против, что не даст вам ни переохладиться против ветра, и не перегреться по ветру.

Еще одна опасность – это что можете не сами упасть, а вас просто может сбить машина, которую понесло на льду. В таком случае, этого избежать не удастся. Смотри п.1.

Падать, конечно, немного мягче в зимнем экипе, но все равно очень больно

Одевайтесь рационально тепло. Поддерживайте определенный темп и пульс. Если вы оделись слишком тепло или вкручиваете слишком усердно, то вы сильно вспотеете и это ни к чему хорошему в минусовую температуру не приведет. Вам ни в коем случае нельзя будет останавливаться даже на непродолжительное время.

Не крутите рулем. Ушедшее переднее колесо в сторону на льду не даст вам шансов удержать велосипед.

Не вставайте на ноги на льду. Чревато пробуксовкой заднего колеса, наклоном велосипеда в сторону, потерей сцепления и падением.

Не крутите по сторонам головой – смещение центра тяжести и вы поведете в сторону велосипед.

Не совершайте резких движений – все должно быть плавно, slow motion.

Если вы заехали на наледь, неплохим решением может быть не крутить педали, а спокойно ее проехать.

И второй главный совет – если вы не уверены в преодолении какого-либо скользкого участка, спешьтесь и пройдите этот участок пешком. Лучше пусть корона валяется на асфальте, чем вы.

Езда зимой в гололед – тот еще экстрим. Невероятно прокачивает психику, быстроту принятия решений, технику езды на велосипеде, наполняет железом велотрусы спереди (бывает и не железом и сзади). Выехав в гололед на велосипеде не ожидайте звонка от президента с поздравлениями, звания героя и медали. Риски очень велики. Всегда смотри п. 1.

Big Up Urself!!!

 

 

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